Featuring the San Blas Islands, The Chagres River and Colon
1st mate’s Warning: We have, when internet is available, seen what is going on in the world. The awful invasion into the Ukraine, the storms and cold weather all make us feel incredibly lucky to be where we are and doing what we are doing. We feel guilty being able to shut ourselves off from the outside world and just be doing our own thing.
Leaving Aruba, a timely reminder of how things can go very very wrong!
The 1st Mate was getting nervous about this next passage. It was going to be a four-day sail to the San Blas islands and the conditions were not looking favourable. When the captain announced, with glee, that there was a new weather window and we could be able to leave a few days earlier than expected, the nerves started to rattle just a wee bit. We started stocking up at the supermarket and getting Broadsword ship shape. The nerves rattled a lot louder when someone came to visit the boat and said ‘Ok…..so you think it will be safe to leave tomorrow with this wind?’ Matters slightly came to a head when the captain asked the 1st Mate to sign some last-minute power of attorney documents to send back to lawyers. The 1st Mate quaked slightly and shot off to phone her children and her parents!
So, the good ship Broadsword set off in a Force 7 wind! Very choppy and rolley, but not the worst she had been in. The captain and 1st Mate started up our watches and soon were literally saying ‘night-night’ to each other about 6 times a day. Constant movement of the yacht means constant movement on the body, even in sleep. Exhaustion sets in….then grumpiness … The captain and 1st Mate have discovered they are actually quite good at passive aggressive!
The sight of the San Blas islands on the 21st of February were a wonder to behold and well worth the exhaustion. (And here is where you might want to stop reading). Tiny, idyllic little islands with coconut trees, white sandy beaches and turquois blue crystal clear bays . Little shacks dotted around with children playing in the sea. It was the stuff of Robinson Crusoe
We first arrived on an island with a tiny air strip. Here we had to check into immigration and customs. On entering the shack that housed customs, we were greeted by a topless customs officer, (we think he’d just come out of the shower). He hurriedly put a shirt on and proceeded with his official role. His colleague, who hadn’t even acknowledged us, continued to watch a film on his phone at full volume.
The San Blas Islands, one of our anchorages
Editor’s note: The San Blas islands are actually called Guna Yala. They don’t like to be called the San Blas islands. They are indigenous Guna Indians, originally driven out of Columbia, who have preserved their culture and traditions. This is why their landscape is very unchanged. They are physically small, have boundless energy and lead a very peaceful lifestyle. Crime is very rare. Each village has three ‘Sailas’ (chiefs) who hold the highest authority at village level. Most arguments or problems are sorted out over hours of talking through them in a main thatched hall whilst reclined in hammocks. The mainstay to their economy is coconuts. The women make money by selling ‘Molas’ which are beautiful applique shirts. Each are unique. The women take control of the money and generally are the leaders of the household (captain really should take note!) I could go on, but it is a fascinating place to visit and we could all learn something from their way of life.
One of the village islands.
We first went to the islands of Chichime then Holandes Cays, Waisaladup Isla, all even better than the last. The captain spotted a stingray whilst out snorkelling. Turtles popped up for breathers. Pelican and frigate birds circled and dived for fish. We then decided to go to a very populated busy island that was completely covered in shacks called Carti Sugdup. We arrived and put our anchor down. No sooner had we done this than a little dug out boat arrived at our side with a man in a baseball cap and mirrored aviator shades. We had just met……Ernesto, the self-proclaimed tourist guide to the island. He came alongside Broadsword. Got us to help him tie up and just got onto the boat!! We were a bit taken aback but no worries, he seemed nice enough. He sat himself down and requested we get him a drink. Firstly, he produced a flag that his grandmother had sewn. He told us all about the history of the island and invited us to come and be his guest and visit his family.
Charming and lovely people and very camera shy
We were utterly charmed by this and were very excited and a bit nervous. But we felt safe and he had all the chat. We were certainly going to learn something about their lives and culture. You could be cynical in these situations and yes, they were squeezing very American dollar out of us that they could, but we think it was worth it!
The Guna woman spend much of the day sowing the Molas
Here were just some of our experiences…
1) We were invited to his house and met his family. Everything was incredibly basic. Mud floors, bamboo walls, tin roof. A long drop loo which was basically just a ledge where it pooped and weed straight into the sea. Ernesto’s family were very proud of their home and being able to welcome us into it.
2) Could we let him have our pilot guide book – sadly no – we needed it for our further travels. He could do a swap it for a molas…. No, sadly not, we needed the guide, and we had already bought a molas!
3) Could we buy a molas – we already have one – oh are you sure? - yes! He looked crestfallen…. oh, ok we’ll buy another one! - $20 down
4) We see the children’s re-enactment of the revolution in 1925. It was absolutely fantastic with soundtracks and recordings of gunfire. Replica guns, fake blood and lots of beating each other up. All very serious and they were so proud to be taking part. Not sure if they would have allowed such a graphic school performance in the UK! We were the only tourists watching in the village square. A real and rare privilege shoulder to shoulder with the villagers and no other outsiders!
5) We were allowed into their main hall and met two of their Sailas. Lying in their hammocks listening to their villagers and their worries.
6) We must see the museum. Basically, a shack with various bowls and faded pictures. Another big long speech about the history of the islands - $20 down
7) After our island visit, we had just got back to the boat when a little old lady came by in her leaky dug out. Well, actually, she (as well) just got onboard Broadsword and sat down, muttering something about her husband el morde and hopital, mucho dollars.. The 1st Mate suggested to the captain that maybe she needed money as her husband had died in hospital and she needed to pay the medical expenses. Would we like to buy a molas. – No thank you, we have two already and we have no cash left – she sat and crossed her arms and wouldn’t move. Hopital and mucho dollars were said again. Sulky face! The 1st mate was pretty convinced she was about to hex the boat and crew. She then got up and looked at our flip flops. Could she have them? – no, sorry, we needed them. She sat down again. Could she have a bottle of whisky or rum? No! We would be definitely be needing them ………… We bought another molas! - $20 down. She still left in a strop though! It might have been something to do with the captain saying that he hoped her husband got better soon……he NEVER listens!!!
Watching the 1925 revolution celebrations with the children
We decided to head over to a place called Portobello! Well, we all know Portobello town, Portobello Road, but do you know the history behind the name? Christopher Columbus arrived in the bay in 1502 on his fourth expedition, trying to find the Pacific. He was struck by the beauty of the bay and named it “Portobello”. Fast forward a couple of hundred years and Portobello had become a vital strategic Spannish stronghold complete with huge fortifications to protect all the plundered gold and silver that flowed through the port on its way to Spain. Admiral Vernon (Brit – hooray), destroyed the fort and captured the town. One of his officers was a Scott who lived outside Edinburgh and built his house on the Firth of Forth. In homage to his boss and his great victory, he called the house “Portobello”. The name stuck to the town that grew up around it.
Then we went to the Chagres River. It was so beautiful. Parrots, Howler Monkeys, and Toucans! The captain came over all Harrison Ford for a while. (A bit of Indiana Jones and a splash Allie Fox (The Mosquito Coast)) The last straw though, for the 1st Mate, was when he appeared round the corner of the hardware section of a local market brandishing a machete, saying could he get one because he would really needed it for hacking his way through the jungle!! We now know where Harvey gets it from!
Broadsword on the mighty Chagres surrounded by the jungle
At the mouth of the Chagres River is the Fort Lorenzo. The Chagres River is very important as it supplies the water for the Panama Canal. It was also as strategically important as the aforementioned Portabello, another route out for the gold, silver, spices etc were transported before the Panama Canal was built. Fort Lorenzo was the protection of this passage way and it was plundered and blown up many, many times. The British, particularly, were responsible for this, including the pirate Henry Morgan, of Morgan Spice fame.
Fort Lorenzo, guarding the mouth of the Chagres
Anyway, history lesson done for now! We now find ourselves in Shelter Bay Marina, just outside the city of Colon, in Panama. Here we have to get the boat measured and paper work done for the transit of the canal. We will probably have four extra people on board with us. Three linesmen and a pilot / canal advisor for two days. Meals will need to be provided and we need to ensure that our heads (loo) have a door that closes! Our transit date is set for Saturday 12th March.
Swimming never far away
On the bright side there is a swimming pool in the marina, so the 1st Mate is very happy, especially as a 2-meter crocodile was spotted in the marina a few days previously!
The captain and 1st Mate are slightly kicking their heels, wanting to get on and through the canal. A 10-day waiting list is not helping, neither are the colds they have bizarrely managed to catch from nowhere. There conversations in passive aggressive are coming on well…………and they are still married!
I hope you are all well and safe.
Ed's Note
We have bought a clever little box called a Garmin InReach, a satellite device that does a host of things including transmitting out position wherever we are. We have linked this to a web site NoForeignLand. We are still working out how to get the best out of both, but No Foreign Land will show you were we are LIVE and hopefully provide the track of our journey. If you FOLLOW us, then you should get a wee alert every time we set of.
Danny Boy calling Broadsword
amazing....what an adventure! I love reading your updates. Big love to you both x
Excellent update Lucy, loved the "Broadsword on the mighty Chagres surrounded by the jungle" photo.
You transport us. Thanks. A man a Plan a canal Panama.