Spliffs , scooters and sting rays. And what on earth is a Paroe? Read all about it...
Broadsword arrived in Tahiti not knowing what really to expect, and certainly did not expect that the arrival through the pass to be dictated by air traffic control! The Taina Marina is on the other side of the airport and you cannot pass the end of the runway without their say so. Multitasking air traffic controllers instruct you to stop and wait in the interest of saving your mast being clipped by the undercarriage of an approaching 747 coming into land. As if their jobs aren’t stressful enough.
Our anchorage in Tahiti, looking over to neighbouring island Moorea
The difficulty with the two Papatee marinas is that you can’t book. It’s basically ‘first come first served so it was only on the second day there, a place became free and we headed in. Now …the Captain and First Mate have a bit of an issue when it comes to manoeuvring through marinas. Not the easiest of jobs at the best of times but when you’re bow thrusters (the things that help you turn) aren’t working properly, coupled with the memory of a short sharp argument with a pontoon in Bonaire, which the pontoon won; you have a fairly nervous crew. But hurrah, the gods were looking down on us! Our space was a hammerhead (the very end of a pontoon) and quite easy to moor up to. We had showers, laundrette, restaurants and a shiny new Carrefour down the road. But most importantly…FRESH FRUIT AND VEGETABLES. We hadn’t had fresh foods for over a month and walking into the shops and the sight of crisp fresh lettuces, green crunchy apples and rosy red tomatoes made the crew’s day.
You can not believe how excited we were to see this on day one.
We had a major reason for being in Tahiti. Not just to explore the island but also to pick up a water pump for our defunct generator, which was being delivered from France. It wasn’t there on arrival, so we made plans. Into Papatee town centre we ventured and paid a visit the famous indoor market. An amazing vibrant hall filled with fresh fruit, fish, flowers and vegetables along with the inevitable crafts and a selection of black pearls purveyors. Our earlier pearl farm visit on Rangiroa had horrified the crew with its prices, but we had been told of a certain shop in the market where if you asked for the “special collection” they brought out the box of pearls behind the counter, far lovelier and much more reasonably priced.
Excited to explore the Tahiti, we booked a 4 x 4 tour, all eight-hours of it; quite long, but it was a big island. We were collected first thing in the morning and then on to pick up the rest of the passengers. A motley French group of family and friends arrived at the truck. Tattoos (I know!) pink hair, and with a couple of 6 packs under each arm. The Captain and First Mate looked at each other in that ‘oh my god!’ way. The expression ‘never judge a book by its cover’ springs to mind. What an amazing group of lovely people. Great fun, really interesting and very tolerant of our rubbish French! We set off. The Captain was getting grumpier and grumpier being thrown around on the back of an open pickup racing along dirt tracks, it was extremely uncomfortable. But as we got higher up the mountains the views got more spectacular and he started to enjoy himself a bit more. This could have also been down to the copious amounts of weed our French friends were chain smoking and thus the involuntary passive inhalation we were encountering throughout the trip! In fact, the First Mate is pretty sure she saw some multicoloured ‘My Little Ponies’ enveloped by pretty rainbows galloping of in the distance. We swam in rivers, took in all the viewpoints and then we all stopped at a weird building on top a plateau. We have no idea what the building actually was, an old hotel, an unused conference centre? Lord only knows. It was so run down but the view was gobsmacking, the food was delicious and the company was fantastic. Then back in the truck. Being thrown round more hairpin bends. We went through a long dark tunnel which bored directly through the high mountain ridge near the summit, all screaming at the tops of our voices. And, then we were out the other side of the mountain and on our way back down.
Still no word about our delivery, so, rather than hang around and wait in Tahiti we decided to go to the neighbouring island Moorea to explore. A day sail away and we arrived with the most beautiful turquoise waters where popped our anchor down and relaxed. Now the First Mate takes a lot of pride in her anchor setting and placed it right on the edge of a bank of sand that dropped off into a channel. It was perfect……while the wind was blowing in the right direction. Suddenly we realised that the wind had changed direction and we had drifted 30 meters away from where we originally anchored and nearly on the coral reef. A hasty re-anchorage was deployed with a bit more attention to placing!
Debra Winger, eat your heart out
Its hard to believe but the crew have found a common interest! They have discovered that they are ‘bikers.’ I know! It’s incredible. I bet images of Tom Cruise and Kelly McGillis (Top Gun), Richard Gere and Debra Winger (An Officer and a Gentleman) come to mind. Sadly, no. Imagine, if you can, two middle aged oldies on a 50cc Scooter whizzing round islands shouting Ia Orana (yo-rah-na - hello!) at all the people staring, speechless as this bizarre spectacle shoots past them. The First Mate also got incredibly excited as she found a new film location which she had not expected. Broadsword was actually anchored in Bounty Bay. Yes! Where they filmed part of Mutiny on the Bounty with Mel Gibson and Sir Anthony Hopkins….happy days.
They have teeth.
We had been told of a stingray feeding station down the coast so off we charged in Danny Buoy, our trusty tender, armed with a Tupperware of tuna, snorkel and flippers. We anchored up and the stingrays were everywhere. The Captain, of course, leapt in first and demanded the tuna, from the First Mate; even though she was the one who actually remembered to bring it in the first place. Off he went with a flourish and the rays approached, enticed by fishy whiffs. You know it's safer to put the food on the flat of your hand… well, the Captain knew better and before he knew it his four fingers had disappeared into a rather large stingray’s mouth and it had teeth and they hurt…. a lot. Much squawking and splashing ensued and the Captain threw the tuna at the First Mate. Now the stingrays were gathering in large numbers round her, as were the black tipped sharks. Quite honestly, she could have out swum Michael Phelps at this point whilst screaming expletives at the Captain! All being said, the stingrays are amazing. They feel like velvet and they are very single minded when it comes to food!
So back to Tahiti and still no pump delivery! In fact, annoyingly, it had never left France. So new plans were made. Our mad French friends had told us that out of all the islands they had been to, Huahine was their favourite. Sails set, of we went for an overnight passage a smidgen over 100 miles.
Was this the moment we caught covid?
The Huahine locals are amazing and lovely. There doesn’t seem to be a reason for them wearing their beautiful floral head dresses every day, but they do. Even the men. To see a man in deep discussion with a friend, shopping bag in his hand and a beautiful garland round his head seemed odd to us but perfectly natural to him. We found a fantastic wee restaurant and bar where we enjoyed a few lovely meals watching the sunset with music and dancing in background. The First Mate had also been eyeing up some of the women’s clothing and very much wanted to get a paroe (like a sarong) They are beautifully hand painted and gorgeous. The crew like to see things being made and we found the perfect place at the end of the island where we were shown the process and how they set the dyes. Two paroes later and the First Mate was a happy lady.
Much needed retail therapy, Lucy is dressed in a hand painted paroe by the artist.
The next day we hired another scooter. Again, like two wee numpties whizzing round the island exploring. There were however quite a few steep hills on this particular island and the sight of the Captain and First Mate leaning forward over the handle bars while the poor scooter whined and struggled to crawl up one particular hill nearly finished off a workman at the side of the road. He had tears running down his face he was laughing so much.
Anchored in four fee of water.
We moved Broadsword down the coast and found paradise; pristine turquoise water just four feet deep and we were the only boat there. It really was the perfect spot. So perfect and isolated that the crew may have partaken in a bit of skinny dipping in the happy knowledge our blissful isolation would spare the locals a shock encounter. We loved it so much we stayed there for three days. Paddle boarding, swimming and snorkelling with stingrays and eagle rays. Then needs must and we had to move this time to Bora Bora we went, a relaxed 30 mile day sail.
Regular visitors to the boat.
Bora Bora was a strange one. Its name screams luxury, famous people, hotels on stilts over the water. But we didn’t really see it. I’m sure it was all there but not unless you booked into a hotel. (Which, btw, the Captain still hasn’t fulfilled his promise of a nice hotel for the First Mate!).
Shake your booty, or should I say booties??
We did, however, book tickets to see the last night of a music and dance festival. Oh my giddy aunt it was amazing, despite the torrential downpour that reminded me of trips to the Edinburgh Tattoo, only warmer. The singing was enchanting but the dancing was something else. The girls were stunning and their hips moved in a way that the First Mate would surely have needed a hip replacement had she’d tried to copy them. The smiles on their faces never broke, it was a magical evening.
The next day, we were due to explore the island on another trusty scooter. Alas, it was not to be. The First Mate woke up the following morning feeling a bit fluey. Two covid tests later and, yes, we were positive. So, everything was cancelled and boat quarantine established. But, we had to set out to get to Fiji and there was a weather window which we couldn’t miss. The crew should really have listened to the First Mates’ Mammie’s wise words: “Don’t leave now while you are unwell”. She doesn’t think she has ever had such a rubbish and difficult passage, nor has she felt so ill in such a long time. Broadsword limped out of Bora Bora, not really having experienced it all. The poor Captain ended up doing most of the sailing, cooking and general nursing of the First Mate. All done with a smile on his face and his upbeat view on everything. Which helps ........as they are still married!
I read this enraptured as usual -- are you over your covid? I suppose getting it was inevitable but oh dear.
And well done you for buying two paroes! I never buy any clothes when I travel and always wish I had -- though last time I think R was right when she commented that the hand-painted thing I was eyeing wouldn't fit over my boobs.
Thank you for writing this: I have read about Tahiti in MUTINY ON THE BOUNTY and it was probably in the Patrick O'Brien series too but YOU make it real. I can imagine it! And it's such fun to read about how you are doing it -- EVERYONE's adventures are bland compared to this…
Lots of love to you both. Such a wonderful adventure xxxx